September 21st, 2023
In the case of a bricked ESC/Controller/Control Board, STLinking can save the controller from needing to be replaced in some instances.
This page shows how to STLink the 2nd gen ESC/controller based on the Artery AT32 chip that comes on 2022 maxes and newer and has screw terminals.
For this process, you will need:
This process can be dangerous if done incorrectly so take caution when performing these steps and make sure you use a computer you are comfortable possibly destroying.
If you short a battery line you could end up blowing up your STLink, Computer, and more or even causing a fire.
Check out the difference between the Ninebot Max ESC Generations and use the steps below depending on which one you have.
There are 3 different board layouts.
Click the image above to go to the guide that corresponds to your model.
Start by removing the 18 Security Torx T-15 screws on the bottom.
Using an M4 Allen/Hex wrench or bit, remove the two screws holding the ESC in place.
Carefully unplug each of the connectors.
You may need to scrape more rubber potting compound away from some of the connectors in order to unplug them.
Remove the black shell from the ESC, and take the outer clips off first in order to slide the shell out from under the upper lip.
Once removed, locate the debug pins.
Connect the pins to the STLink as shown:
Download ScooterHacking ReFlasher from the ScooterHacking website.
Install it and open it.
Once installed, open the software and change your model to Ninebot Max.
Make sure you have ‘AT32’ selected as the chip or you will brick your esc.
To show the console (helpful for debugging errors), press settings -> show console.
Fill out your serial number and current mileage and press ‘Launch Recovery’.
Check the console to make sure there were no issues flashing.
Remove the STLink and plug back in the ESC and use ScooterHacking Utility to check that your version number is now 1.6.13 or 1.7.3.